I am exhausted in the very best way. Today was the big adventure dive day. Hammerhead Dive!
Dive site
The bumpy hour long boat ride brought us here. These two rocks are just off the coast of Molokai, the island to the right in our view from our lanai. This dive is only for advanced divers since it’s a drift dive. On many boat dives the boat anchors in place and you jump in the water, scuba around and return to the boat. On a drift dive a group of divers jump into the water simultaneously and then the current takes them on a bit of a ride underwater. The boat follows the divers’ bubbles and the current and picks the divers up when they surface. The synchronous diving in is more tricky than it sounds. Getting out onto the boat is even more challenging since the swells are 5-6’. Climbing up a ladder with 50 pounds of scuba gear on your back while the boat is going up and down 5-6’ at a time is tricky. Fortunately, I did well and the crew was very efficient and helpful.
The dive itself was beautiful. We saw 8-10 scalloped hammerhead sharks, a grey reef shark, barracuda and lots and lots of fish. There was even a bait ball of sardines with a couple of larger fish hunting in it. I’ve never seen that before. (I’ll edit some of the video I took and post it in tomorrow’s blog. It’s too late and I’m too tired to do it tonight.)
We spotted a few whales on the ride back to Lahaina and Mike took some video of our dive boat as it passed the condo as I was taking video of the condo. Very meta.
While I was diving Mike was on the beach under an umbrella relaxing. We met back up at the condo and watched a baby sea turtle and a large sea turtle ride the waves in front of the condo.
Nap time. I’ve been up at 5am the last 3 days and that, along with the nitrogen in my blood from two days of diving caught up with me. We slept for nearly 2 hours.
The sunset looked promising but the clouds weren’t just right for the big boom of color that sometimes happens. Still, not too bad.
Looking straight down from our condo in the 8th floor. Lots of folks watching the sunset.
By this time we were hungry. We decided to head into Lahaina for dinner and went to Down The Hatch.
Lobster and crab grill cheese. Brussels Sprouts and Lava Shrimp. (Photos by Mikey.)
This was quite possibly the best meal we’ve ever had on Maui. Each and every bite was a flavor explosion in our mouths. I hope we eat here again before we leave.
Now I am way past my bedtime. I’m really glad I don’t have any reason to get up early tomorrow. I’m looking forward to sleeping in until 7? 7:30? We’ll see.
This was a good one. I woke at 5am to have a quick bite of breakfast and get ready for my first day of scuba diving.
After a 45 minute boat ride we arrived at our first dive site, Cathedrals 2, named for the lava formations that look really cool from inside. This site is on the south side of Lanai, we see the northeast side of Lanai from our…lanai.
Here’s some video. (I’m still getting used to editing with the 360 camera.)
The second dive was at “Nob Hill,” a lava nob that’s fun to swim around and explore. I’ve done these dives before and they aren’t my favorite. It seems like most dive guides love to look for the little tiny sea creatures. I’d rather sea big sea turtles and sharks and lobster. This is one of those little things dives but it was still fun and it prepped me for tomorrow’s more adventurous trip.
On the boat ride back to Lahaina we spotted a couple of humpback whales.
This made me really want to experience a whale watching sail with Mike so I booked us one when I returned to the condo for Wednesday. I hope we get to see lots of whales up close!
Lunch was just a few little snacks and pineapple followed by a little whale watching from the lanai and then a nap.
I woke up in time to host the 7pm (PDT) Zoom meeting and then Mike and I headed to a new place for dinner.
Mahi mahi (which I learned today from our boat captain, who has a marine biology degree, is a very sustainable fish), coconut shrimp and stirfry veggies. Outstanding!
Then, to work off some of that food, we sat and watched the sunset.
You know it was a good sunset when your photo gallery looks like this.
We were just in Maui nine months ago and we had a lovely trip. It was our first opportunity to travel together since the beginning of the pandemic and it was a perfect place to be. Lots of outdoor dining, strict mask mandates and a real sense of taking COVID seriously.
The run up to departure has been a lot easier this time. Last trip we ran into some difficulties getting a COVID test within 72 hours of our departure due to the 4th of July holiday. This time no testing was required, just proof of vaccination. We’ll have to grab a bracelet in San Francisco before we depart but Mike got us a quick solution that should expedite that process. Which is good since we have a quick turnaround there.
I began pre-missing the dog a few days ago. It really hit Mike yesterday and this morning. She and I have spent so much time together and since we had a little scare with her back (she had a bulging disc, a common problem with short legged, long spined dogs) she’s received a bunch of extra attention. (Mike and I camped on the floor downstairs with her for nearly three weeks.)
I’m sure she won’t miss me putting her toys on her head…
She’s doing much better now and we have all sorts of ramps and gates around the house to help keep her spine healthy. Still, the extra worry and attention make it all the more difficult to leave her for a bit. Fortunately, Rachel stays with her while we’re gone and Lainey loves Rachel!
Our TSA Pre allowed us to pass by a really long security line. Yay! We tried out the Escape Lounge in Sacramento. It was underwhelming but nice to be away from the crowded airport.
We had a smooth flight to SFO. For my plane geek friends we were on an ERJ-175. The skies are super clear today.
777-200 sfo to Maui.
The 777-200 above will take us to Maui. They have the newer Polaris Class lie flat seats that will make the flight incredibly comfortable for us.
All set to bypass the lines at the Maui Airport.On our way!
I follow several travel gadget gurus on YouTube and one of them recommended this little thing.
AirFly
It’s a Bluetooth device called AirFly that allows me to use my wireless headphones to listen to the in-flight entertainment. I usually just plug my headphones in but at least 4-5 times a flight I accidentally yank it out. With this device I’m cord free. It works great!
I slept for an hour or so after they served us breakfast. The flight was uneventful except for when we hit a pretty big turbulence bump and the captain came on an demanded the flight crew take there seats NOW. That freaked me out for a few seconds but things quickly smoothed out.
I watched a YouTube video of a Maui local who listed his top ten places to eat on Maui without a reservation. Some on the list are our favorites so we assume the guy has good taste. I made a google maps list (thanks Tom!) of the eateries that looked interesting to us so we could hit a few of his recommendations we haven’t yet tried.
Tin Roof close to the Airport
As is our way, I went to the rental car place while Mike grabbed our luggage. By the time I picked Mike and the bags up we were both ready for lunch so we went to our first new recommended food place, Tin Roof.
Mike got the Mochiko Chicken over garlic noodles and I got Garlic Shrimp, also over garlic noodles. Both were spectacular. The sauce on the chicken was magical. YouTube guy for the win.
Our ride, an Infinity SUV.
Hertz allows us to choose a car from their “5-Star” section and I think someone parked this in the wrong section so, woohoo! Comfy ride on Maui.
After lunch and a nice needed nap at the condo (we are staying in the exact same condo we stayed in 9 months ago, Maui Kai, #803) we got up and watched the sunset. It wasn’t anything special and it was eclipsed by a baby whale leaping out of the water. It must have jumped out more than a dozen times in 20 minutes. Mike got some good shots.
Sunset and a baby whale
Still stuffed from lunch we decided to head over to the grocery store to grab some snacks and stuff to make breakfast. Our biggest issue was, “do we have gelato before we shop or after?” We chose before.
Nutella on top, Kona Mud pie on the bottom.
Groceries put away, suitcases unpacked, we are all set for a lovely trip. Expect lots of sunset pictures, whale pictures, sea turtle pictures and food pictures. Thanks for joining us on our little getaway.
I woke up at 6am and got to chat with Mikey before he went to bed. I was out the door and on the train to the airport by 7:30am.
I wanted to make sure I had plenty of time to deal with COVID travel era details including transit forms for the UK (I’m flying through London) and negative COVID tests. I also was looking forward to checking out the SWISS Air Lounge.
Nice observation deck in the SWISS Lounge. Great place to take off my mask for a few minutes.
After walking to the train, walking around the airport to get a VAT refund and a little duty free shopping I worked up a bit of a sweat. I was pleased to see they had showers in the lounge and took a few minutes to wash up so I could feel a bit more refreshed during my long travel day. Maybe it’s silly but I love a good airport shower!
Had a hell of a time trying to get a picture of the planeSWISS Airbus 330-300, business class
The first leg of three is Zurich to London Heathrow on a plane I’ve never been on before, an Airbus 330-300. It is a lovely plane and the business class seats are firm and comfortable.
The next flight is London to SFO on a United 787-900 Dreamliner. This is the same plane Mike and I took to Tokyo. Unfortunately it’s got the original lie flat seats that are fine but not as comfortable as the newer Polaris seats. I choose an isle (I prefer a window) so I wouldn’t have to climb over the passenger next to me when I had to pee. I rather have someone climbing over me.
The final leg is a Canadair CRJ-200 from SFO to Sacramento after a long layover in San Francisco.
This has been an amazing trip. This is the second time I’ve done a week long international trip. In the past I figured if I were traveling overseas I’d best stay for at least two weeks if I’m going to go through the all the effort of getting there. That’s fine when I’m traveling with Mikey but when I’m on my own a week is just fine since I quickly begin to miss Mikey and Lainey.
If I had my choice, Mikey would always be with me when I travel. (He is very easy to travel with.) But traveling solo makes for an interesting enough adventure and I love a good adventure and I love to travel internationally. My courage is stretched when getting out and about in a different country and I think that’s a good thing for me.
What would I do differently if I were to plan this trip again today?
I loved Bern! I didn’t need to stay any longer, 2 nights were plenty. I’d love to come back here again. And getting there from Zurich was so easy.
Bern, Switzerland
Gimmelwald and the Berner Oberland area has become one of my favorite places on the planet. I could easily see flying into Zurich and spending the whole week in Gimmelwald, exploring more of the valley and even going on another hike or two. I’ve barely scratched the surface of this gorgeous place. And I think I could easily get there after a flight into Zurich.
Art in his happy place.
In case you’re wondering, I have three other favorite places on the planet, so far. Maui, Venice and my house. What are your favorites?
Lucerne was a pretty city and the lake and the sites seem almost designed to serve the tourists of the romantic era when people began to travel for pleasure. As I mentioned I had a difficult time mentally leaving the Alps for a big city. Still, glad I went and experienced it.
Zurich is a fine city to fly into, but other than another trip to the Freitag Flagship Store I don’t see any other reason to spend more time there.
The best experiences of the trip:
Best meal!
This delicious Swiss German meal was amazing and the views were killer.
Best Activity:
The Mountain View Hike. The Eiger, the Moch and the Junfrau…and Art
The hike was incredible and certainly a highlight of the trip for me. I’d like to do more. It was one of several times during the trip where I was so grounded in the moment and just flooded with gratitude. This is my life? Yes, yes it is.
Best Touristy Site:
The Lion Monument, Lucerne
More than an amazing sculpture carved into a cliff side, the entire grotto area was an nice retreat from the busy city.
Best chocolate:
Ovomaltine!
With a nice malted milk taste combined with a yummy milk chocolate, this was my favorite, though I didn’t try very many varieties. I might be bringing some Swiss chocolate home, though…
Best human interaction:
Everyone at Esther’s Guest House, especially Johannes from Tennessee, via South Africa was a wealth of information and a fun person to chat with. He’s an older gentleman with three sons, all in their twenties. He represented the generosity and kindness of everyone I met while staying at Esther’s Guest House.
Best animal interaction:
Tie between the bird who joined me for breakfast in Lucerne and the cat that joined us for dinner at Pension Gimmelwald.
Best Blog Cross Pollination:
Meeting up with Steve and Ash!
What a treat to spend some time with these two amazing men. And how fun to get to read Ash’s Facebook posts and Steve’s travel blog while traveling in the same area. I’ve added to my list of destinations to explore in Berner Oberland thanks to those two.
Best snacks:
Snacks!
I made the alp cheese and sausage breakfast most mornings so they’re not really snack foods but they had to be included somewhere in my favorites. The pretzels with pumpkin seeds were incredibly delicious and filling. The wild blueberries were yummy and fun to pick and eat.
The rest of this blog is all about the travel home. I try to enjoy my travel days as much as the trip itself. Thus the upgrades to more comfortable seats and lounge access. I can be an anxious flyer so, if I’m going to get a little nervous during turbulence I might as well be comfortable. Did I mention my seat on the a330-300 has a massage function…?
Massage Feature
The plane from Zurich was delayed due to something like 30 passengers making errors with the COVID Tests and paperwork. The ground crew had to locate and remove those passengers’ checked luggage and help some others get the correct paperwork. All and all we were delayed by about an hour.
Every time I began to feel the edge of worry I would shift to imagining this day of travel rolling out perfectly, exactly as it should be, even if it’s not what I’d prefer. That was helpful.
The plane landed in London at 1:35pm and my flight to SFO finished boarding at 1:55pm.
Holy crap!
Heathrow Airport is a beast. Fortunately, this fine gentleman was waiting at the arrival gate and escorted me and two other passengers through security and passport control at a light jog…
My hero!My plane, Boeing 787-900 Dreamliner.
I was the last passenger to board after a 25 minute long speed walk/jog. I wonder if they have a shower on board…
Ahhhhhhh.
And would you look at this!
TWO first class seats?!
Looks like I’ll only have to climb over myself to get to the restroom. And I get to look out the windows. TWO WINDOWS!
Two windows!
These windows don’t have shades. They have a dimmable function, which I think is just neat.
Ravioli for dinner
I slept for quite a while on the 11 hour flight. I also watched two concerts, Pearl Jam and Stone Temple Pilots which was part of the inflight entertainment. Fun!
A nice landing finished off a very comfortable flight. I zipped through passport control (thank you Global Entry) and found out my checked back didn’t make the quick connection in London. It’s spending much more time there than I did! No worries. They’ll deliver it when it arrives.
I made an inquiry about an earlier flight since I was scheduled for a 10:30pm flight. they got me on a 7pm flight. I haven’t told Mikey. I’m going to surprise him by getting home early.❤️
Despite being exhausted because of the time change it has been a great travel day.
Thanks so much for joining me on this trip. I hope you enjoyed following along. I really enjoy writing about my travels. It makes me more attentive during the trip watching for things to share with you.
Until next time…
Thanks!
P.S. Here’s a great article on solo traveling overseas…CLICK HERE
This is my last full day in Switzerland. I got a pretty decent amount of sleep last night and wanted to make the most of my day with the most ease. With a little help from Rick Steves I decided to take a cruise on Lake Lucerne before hopping a train to Zurich.
Breakfast with a special guest.
No, Steve and Ash didn’t join me for breakfast. This little guy did.
Lainey usually gets to lick my plate clean when I have breakfast. I’ve been missing that. I sent Mike the video of the bird this morning and he said Lainey was jealous and sent me this video.
Clearly I’m at the “homesick” part of the trip.
I repacked my bags after breakfast and headed to the train station to store the luggage. The train station is directly across from the pier where I was to catch my boat. Ease.
From the pier, Lucerne I forgot to get a picture of a boat so here’s a stock photo of the boat I was on.
The cruise was very relaxing and absolutely charming. This wasn’t a tourist boat, it was part of the Swiss transportation system taking people to Weggis from Lucerne. Weggis is good he jumping off point to head up to the top of Mount Rigi. I was just on for the round trip ride.
My outdoor perchCool lake catamaran DCIM100MEDIADJI_0152.JPGDCIM100MEDIADJI_0160.JPGDCIM100MEDIADJI_0172.JPGPretzel with pumpkin seed picnicLake cruise, Lucerne
It took just under two hours to get Weggis and back and that was a perfect length of time for me. Here’s some video clips.
Train Station, Lucerne
The boat docked across the street from the train station. In fewer than 10 minutes I’d retrieved my bags and was on a train to Zürich. So efficient!
45 minutes later I was on the quick walk to my hotel.
Hotel Bristol, Zürich My room
I needed a coffee and a little bite so I headed down the road to the old town area and ate.
Espresso and waterA yummy cheesy quiche with baconEarly dinner.
I walked off some of that quiche around old town. I just meandered.
Random pictures from my Zurich stroll
I ended up back at the hotel around 6:30pm. I was ready to sleep but stayed up long enough to repack my bag since I’ll be checking it for the homeward journey.
My flight isn’t until noon but I’ll be heading into the airport early for several reasons. 1. I hate running late to the airport. 2. I took my COVID test but want to make sure I don’t run into any problems at check-in. 3. I’ll have lounge access and will want to take advantage of that, preflight while I work on my summary of the trip. Plus I’ll probably get some Duty Free chocolate to bring home.
Thanks for following along! You’ll never guess what bakery I randomly came across in Zurich…
My departure from Gimmelwald was difficult. I’ve enjoyed this area so much I’m sad to be leaving. I will return, sooner rather than later.
A final few moments on the porch of Esther’s Guest House
For breakfast I had an espresso and the rest of my Alp cheese and sausage. I considered getting some more of the smoked sausage and trying to sneak it into the USA (the USDA frowns on meat products crossing the border.) I’ve watched too many of those border patrol shows where people are caught in airports smuggling food that I think it would just stress me out the entire flight home. Anyway, I’ll be back for more.
I said my goodbyes to my new friend who helped me figure out the right hike yesterday. Johannes with his experience of the area and the adventures of Steve and Ash over the last few days show me that I’ve just begun to scratch the surface of this region. I could easily see a whole week here using Gimmelwald as my jumping off point.
Speaking of Steve and Ash, they agreed to give me a lift to the train station this morning so I took the 9:45am gondola down to the valley floor and enjoyed the paragliders landing as the boys made there way to pick me up.
Paraglider landing after soaring through the valleyWaterfall, just sort of sputtering since most of the season’s snow has already melted.
Steve and Ash shuttled me to the Interlaken train station and dropped me off at the CO-OP so I could grab a quick croissant for the train ride to Lucerne. The ride was beautiful.
Snap shots from the train to Lucerne
The train headed past the other lake that Interlaken is in between, Lake Brains. (Interlaken=locked between lakes. Sort of.) The lake had the silty blue green from the glacial runoff. After passing the lake the train stopped and reversed and began climbing out of the valley giving beautiful views down into the valley the further we went up. Eventually we were out of the valley and passing several little towns and villages situated around small lakes.
Around 20 minutes before arriving in Lucerne we began to ride on the coast of Lake Lucerne, another beautiful glacial blue-green body of water.
Lake Lucerne
An overall lack of sleep had me crossing my fingers that my room might be ready for me earlier than regular check-in.
My hotel
Devine timing won the day when they hotel clerk handed me my room key at around 1:05pm. I thanked her profusely for the early check-in and headed up to my room.
My room at the Hotel Krone
Now that is a European hotel room! Not much bigger than a hallway with a single bed this room is just perfect for one person. I quickly bathed to cool off from the walk from the train station to my hotel and crashed for a coupon of blissful hours.
View from my hotel window Same view several hours laterLooking the other direction Out the window from my bedSameAnd again a bit laterViews from my hotel room
In the distance from the view above you can see Mount Rigi. More of that at dinner.
First I had to shake off a funk. Going from a village with a population of 130 to a major metropolitan city was an abrupt and unwelcomed change. I just wanted to stay in the room and go back to sleep but I thought this might pass if I got out and walked it off. So I plugged in one tourist sight after another and let google maps lead the way. First stop, the Lion Monument.
The Lion Monument
The story is a long and interesting one, not interesting enough to type out here so here’s a LINK if you’d like to read more about this 30’ wide sculpture carved into the lovely grotto. For those of you who just want to look at pretty pictures (you are my people) here ya go:
Across the pondA closer lookA Lion SelfiePanorama of the Grotto
Next stop, Jesuit Church.
Jesuit Church
I made my way to the church not to go in (it was closed by this point in the day) but as a destination point so I could check out other things along the way. I stopped by a couple of stores to get a few needed items and a new shirt on my way to the church.
Next stop, Chapel Bridge.
Chapel Bridge
Again, lots of history here. The bridge and water tower were built around 650 years ago. The bridge burned down in 1993 and was rebuilt with several of the paintings that are placed under the eves of the bridge restored or preserved. more information HERE.
Flowers along the outside of the bridgeView from the bridge to another bridgeOne of the burned panelsArt work in the bridge Art on the bridgeView from the bridgeAnd the other sideChapel Bridge shots
The funk was starting to pass and I was beginning to enjoy myself and this city.
Next stop, Needle Dam.
A needle dam is a weir designed to maintain the level or flow of a river through the use of thin “needles” of wood. These can be added or removed to control the flow out of Lake Lucerne. In 1968 Lucerne was clever enough to add two turbines to generate electricity from the flow. The water feature pictured below serves the purpose of showing how much electricity is being generated. The bigger the spurt the more energy.
Good sized spurt today. Not that it’s a pissing contest…
I made a reservation for dinner at 6:30pm at this place.
I made this reservation a week or so before I flew over. I’m glad I did. The reservation put me on the semi-private outdoor balcony with a view of The Jesuit Church and Mount Rigi.
Dinner was just as good if not better than the view.
Bread with curry butter, pesto butter and regular butter.A delicious house made sausage in a savory onion sauce with Rosti.
This was the second most Swiss meal I had and I loved every bite of it while enjoying the view. My funk was officially over.
After dinner I strolled around a bit to and took more pictures since the lighting was getting really nice. I also had some dessert.
Chocolate Gelato
It’s around 9:30pm ad I’m going to try and get some sleep. I imagine I’ll wake in the middle of the night (I’ll be adjusted to the time change on my flight home, I’m sure) and edit together a highlight reel of some of the video I shot today.
Woke after 4 hours of sleep (yay!) and took my online COVID test for traveling back home. Test came back negative. (Yay!) I spent a little time editing some video clips from the day together. Now for some more sleep. Enjoy!
Thanks again for following along. Tomorrow is more of Lucerne, then Zurich and then I fly home. ❤️
But first, my morning. It started out slowly, a little Alp cheese and sausage for breakfast and some fellowship with other travelers at the guest house.
Every morning I’ve been waking up and poking my head out the skylight to see the view.
The view from the skylight
I finally ran into the owner of Esther’s Guest House, Tobias. and met his daughter. She was just born the last time Mike and I were here.
Tobias, his wife and Matilda
I brought three Folkmanis finger puppets for their daughter, a monarch butterfly, a turtle and raccoon. In the picture above Tobias an his wife are looking up how to say “raccoon” in German and Matilda is playing with the turtle. They are incredibly lovely people. I will be back.
Around noon I caught the gondola up to Mürren.
That’s Mürren hanging on that cliff.
One of my goals for my time in the Alps was to go for an easy hike. I’m not really a hiker. Every time my brother and sister-in-law go to Hawaii and go for hikes Mike and I just shake our heads. It’s not our idea of vacationing.
Even so, I wanted to experience more of the Alps and hiking is the way to do that here. I made a friend back at the Guest House named Johannes. He’s from Tennessee via South Africa and he visits the Berner Oberland regularly, always staying at Esther’s Guest House. He IS a hiker, big-time, and he had lots of suggestions for me knowing that a) I am a complete novice and b) I have a blister on my little toe. He suggested The Mountain View Trail. And gave me a bandaid for my toe.
A quick and steep ride up a funicular brought me to the beginning of the trail. I had no concept of how long or how far the hike would be. Frankly, I was intimidated.
The beginning of the trail.See the trail way in the distance?And that trail on the hill?And the way the hell down there trail?And those cows?Views of the beginning of my journey.
I was on my way, no turning back. No turning back because the first 15-20 minutes were downhill and I sure as hell wasn’t going to climb back up! Being by myself was also a little intimidating but there was the occasional hiker either coming from the other way, or passing me, or me passing them.
I did bring provisions. I had a full bottle of water, a pretzel and an apple….Damnit. I’m going to die on this hike…aren’t I?
DCIM100MEDIADJI_0109.JPGDCIM100MEDIADJI_0117.JPGDCIM100MEDIADJI_0120.JPGDCIM100MEDIADJI_0110.JPGAll of those smiles are absolutely genuine. And I did not die.
It was all worth it. At one point I teared up on the hike. I was just so grateful for the beauty I was witnessing, grateful for all of the swimming I’ve been doing this summer, grateful to be not be carrying the pounds I’ve lost this summer (thank you NOOM), and grateful for the courage to be on that hike.
Wild blueberriesWild blueberries I ate
So I enjoyed the hike. Here’s a highlight reel of some of the video I shot on the Mountain View Trail.
I took this little train back to Mürren.
I asked the conductor if my pass would be acceptable for this train and she said, “not really” and then hustled me on the train for free. ❤️
I shot Steve and Ash a message letting them know I was headed to Mürren for a bite and they decided to join me for coffee and dessert.
The view was incredible as was the meal.
The viewThe dinnerA meal at Edelweiss Hotel
Lunch/dinner was Rosti, the most Swiss meal I’ve had so far. It’s shredded potatoes, slices of ham, all covered with melted cheese and a fried egg. It was sizzling when it came out. It was so rich I couldn’t finish it, though I really wanted to. Very tasty.
Soon these two yahoo’s showed up.
Steve and Ash!
We swapped stories from the day and had a mediocre Apple strudel. At least the coffee was good.
In the restroom at Edelweiss Hotel. Hilarious.
It started to rain so that was our queue to leave. I took the gondola back down to home base and showered off all the hike funk. I ran into Johannes and thanked him profusely for the great hiking advice. And the bandaid.
I ate my hiking provisions for a light dinner and am calling it a night.
Like clock work I woke up at 1:30am after three good hours of sleep. The good news is I got a little nap in today! But I’m getting ahead of myself. The nap was just one of MANY enjoyable moments.
Breakfast with a view.
Alp cheese and sausage with an espresso was my breakfast. I’m going to miss that cheese!
The last time I was here I didn’t do the main tourist attraction, the Schilthorn! This mountain peak is something to be done in the morning since clouds tend to roll in later in the day. It couldn’t be more clear outside so I started the journey up the mountain.
The assent was terrifying and exhilarating. I’m not a huge fan of heights and couldn’t help think about the very thin and hopefully strong cables our heavy gondola was hanging from. The video above shows just the first leg of the assent. There was a equally steep and high assent after that one. The entire journey took me up one mile. Was it worth it?
Yes. Yes it was. For perspective, Lake Tahoe’s altitude is 1897 meters. Gimmelwald where I’m sleeping is at 1357 meters. Schilthorn is at 2970 m.
The views were spectacular.
A cloud next to me.
Thun Lake in the distance
Cloud photobombing
Really happy to be there!
Views from Schilthorn
You can see from the pictures with clouds that if it weren’t clear you just be in a fog bank seeing nothing. That was not the case here.
In addition to the views one of the draws of the Schilthorn is that it had been a filming location of a few James Bond movies. There’s a little museum about that. I skipped it. I was just here for the stunning views.
Not a stunning view…at least not for me. This is the door of the toilet stall, the entire restroom was James Bond themed.
I spent around 45 minutes or so enjoying the views and helping others take pictures with them in the views. It was just great.
I made the ear popping decent down to Mürren, a resort town just above Gimmelwald and grabbed a snack at the CO-OP.
Mürren
I wanted to go for an easy hike so I decided to take the 35 minute walk down to Gimmelwald instead of riding the gondola. The following video shows clips from that beautiful walk, my time on Schilthorn, paragliders and a cow parade. Enjoy.
The video starts with a bird (a little larger than a blue jay) harvesting something off of the tree in front of my hotel. I watched him do this repeatedly this morning. The cow parade was really just some farmers moving their cows through the town to get to a different grazing pasture. Notice how that third heifer stops and gives me some serious side eye.
The walk down took around and hour or so since I took my time soaking in the views.
Meanwhile, back on the porch…
Back at Esther’s Guest House I sat on the porch and had some carrots and an ice cream cone for lunch. (The one cancels out the other. Look it up.)
Lunch
I spent some time editing the pictures and video I’d taken and started to get sleepy so I headed up to take a nap. FYI, here’s what my room looks like.
Room 5 at Esther’s Guest House
I threw the skylight open and the fresh Alp air made the nap glorious.
I was up in time to head back to my perch on the porch and log into one of my favorite Zoom meetings (8:30am Pacific Time, Sunday morning). The meeting ended at 6:30pm local time and I had dinner reservations for three at 7pm.
For three you ask? (Go ahead. Ask. I’ll wait…)
Yes! For three!
Fancy running into these gentlemen…
I love this. Steve (who inspired me to start travel blogging) and his boyfriend Ash just happened to be in the same part of Europe at the same time as I was. We initially were just supposed to have lunch in Interlaken as I was leaving the area and they were arriving but a few crossed wires and changed plans later led to this gathering.
I see Steve all the time in Sacramento so it seems a little silly that I’ve been looking so forward to “running into them” here in Switzerland but the truth is I’ve been stupid excited about it for months. Also, I’ve gotten shoutouts in Steve’s blog from time to time (which I love…both the blog and the shoutouts) so it’s neat to actually include him in mine! (And, I assume, get a shoutout in his…?)
Yummy bean starter with edible alp flowers
Some sort of lovely rice dish with pork
A meh chocolate cake
Alp kitty at my feet during dinner
The dinner view
Dinner with the boys
It was a joy to eat with these guys and our friend Tracy made a hilarious (virtual) appearance via video speaker phone.
From our after dinner stroll
I showed Steve and Ash around Gimmelwald (the place is so small it took all of 15 minutes) and got them to take some alp cheese back to Interlaken with them. I walked them down to the gondola station to see them off. What a lovely way to end a lovely day.
The dessert at dinner was a little disappointing. Fortunately, I’d picked up a little something at the CO-OP.
Yum
A few squares of this delicious chocolate wrapped up another great day in Switzerland. Thanks for following along.
I headed out to find some dinner. I wanted to see the Square behind the Cathedral and thought I might find something over there.
Behind the Bern Minster
It was Friday night so the restaurants that poured out onto the streets were full and the park pictured above was a gathering place for locals to enjoy the beautiful evening with friends. The views of the river and surrounding area from this perch were just perfect.
Can you see the bear on the damn?There he is! (Of course it’s just a statue…)
Strolling around during the early evening was magical.
I was failing at my mission to find a place to eat not from a lack of choices but probably just from decision fatigue. I decided to head to the COOP and get something simple.
A small sandwich, an apple (super crisp with a bit of a pear flavor) and some chocolate.
I worked on the blog for a bit while watching an episode of The Simpsons in German (listed as “Die Simpsons“ on the TV guide). I managed to stay awake long enough to say good night to Mikey who is nine hours behind me and had just gotten home from work.
After a few hours sleep I woke up and was jet lag’s bitch until around 5am. I finally fell beck to sleep for a couple of hours and woke around 8:15am.
I went out to grab an espresso, and apple and croissant. Trams run up and down the main drag here and all over the old town.
I forgot to show this souvenir reusable bread bag I got from…the Ass Bar.
Reusable bread bag
I spent most of the morning packing up my bags for the journey to Gimmelwald. The train ride was simple due to the ease of the Train App and the always on time trains, buses and gondolas of Switzerland.
I’ve been anticipating returning to the Bernese Oberland since Mike and visited there in 2019. I got really excited (stand up and take a picture across the train excited) when I saw these mountains in the distance.
Alps?
Of course, these are just the foothills yet they look like the Sierra Nevada’s do from Sacramento on a clear day. Another 10 or 15 minutes down the track and I could see some actual snow covered Alp peaks which are so much bigger and taller. Now I was really excited.
I’d considered hanging out in Interlaken or one of the other little towns along the way to my final destination today but just kept going until I arrived in Gimmelwald.
My Phone’s photo album after being in Gimmelwald for around 15 minutes.
Picturesque doesn’t even begin to describe this place. The views in every direction are simply jaw dropping. I got a little emotional being back here. And I was hungry.
Alp Cheese and Smoked Sausage
In a town hanging off the edge of a cliff with a population of around 130 people there aren’t a lot of restaurants. In fact there’s none that are open like a typical restaurant during lunch. No matter. I’ve been craving Alp Cheese since the last time I was up here so after dropping off my luggage I strolled down the road until I found a barn with a sign that said the magic words. Alp cheese for sale. Just inside a rickety door there’s a small refrigerator where I picked up the above pictured items. there’s an open box of Swiss Francs where you drop your money in and take your change. Honesty Shop. I love it.
As hungry as I was I couldn’t help but walk the loop around the town so I chucked the cheese into my bag and walked.
Stroll around Gimmelwald
Beautiful.
I found the stairs that lead back to Esther’s Guesthouse, which is where I’m staying.
A few things about the above photo. First, as I type this I am occasionally glancing out the skylight into more stars I’ve ever seen in my entire life. Second, the town is literally hanging on a cliff. Between the trees in the photo and the giant mountains behind them is a very deep valley carved out by a glacier thousands of years ago.
Me being a dork sticking my head out the skylight.
As I headed back down to the guesthouse it started pouring.
I stayed pretty dry under a couple of trees and enjoyed the show. It was over in 5 minutes.
That’s the gondola coming down for Murren, the next town up the mountain.
Finally, lunch!
And I love the cheese and the sausage. My mouth is watering as I write about it. The cheese smells wonderful and has a mild but complex flavor. The sausage was nice and Smokey and dry. (Crap. It’s around 1am as I type this and I’m seriously hungry now. This next section isn’t going to help.)
View from the porch at Esther’s Guesthouse
The building to the right is Pension Gimmelwald, a small hotel that serves dinner at 7pm nightly. I’d made a reservation for myself for this evening.
As I sat on the porch relaxing the owner/chef was out I got the garden (seen in the picture above) picking what I’d be eating in just a few hours.
Dinner was a rustic affair. The food was good but it was really all about the view.
My dinner view.Freshly picked salad greensSchnitzel with freshly picked green beans and mashed potatoes Fruit with whipped creamSpectacular viewDinner
Full and fading quickly I headed back to the guesthouse and got ready for bed. Sleep has been a little hit or miss so I figured I’d crash when I got tired (it was around 8:30/9pm) and work on the blog when I inevitably woke up in the middle of the night, which I did at a little after midnight.
A few more things. I got to pet a dog on the train…
Sweet little dog
…which made me miss my family very much. I got to attend my fight club meeting online which was cool to do. And now as I finish this I get to stare at the stars for a while until I fall asleep again.
This picture doesn’t do them justice
Thanks for continuing on this trip with me. I hope you are enjoying the ride. I sure am.
We need more espresso street vendors in Sacramento. Who do I talk to about this?
I was beginning to fade due to jet lag and not enough sleep so I grabbed an espresso outside the Bern train station before taking the 10 minute walk to my hotel.
The bagpipes were a nice touch. They echoed not unpleasantly through the street.
Here’s my room, large for a European Hotel, and very comfortable.
My hotel in Bern cleverly named “Hotel Bern“
I’d power walked SFO, taken a 10 1/2 hour flight and walked a bit of Zurich so I was overdue for a shower.
Nice shower!
Refreshed, I headed out to grab a bite before turning in. The woman at the hotel suggested Piu Restaurant just a few doors down in the Kornhaus building, an 18th century Baroque structure formerly used as granary to store extra provisions in case of famine or war. Or just in case the city went baroque. Sorry, that joke was a little korny.
Piu Restaurant in the Kornhaus.
Dinner was a simple affair of an artisan pizza (it was delicious) followed by a mild political protest for dessert.
Pizza!
Bern is the Capitol of Switzerland so protests make sense here. I like that the Swiss protest with cowbells. Really big cowbells. One of the signs roughly translated to “the executive branch is harming more than helping.” Switzerland is a semi-direct democratic federal republic with an executive branch that has 7 members on the Federal Council vs. a single President like us in the USA. This is to prevent a power grab by any one individual. Maybe not such a bad idea…
I headed back to the room and slept for a few hours. Jet lag woke me up around 2:30am and I got to chat with Mikey for a while when he got back from walking Lainey.
(I love the he still does the Lainey pulling him Schtick even when I’m overseas.)
I was able to fall back asleep around 4am and slept until 8am. Not too bad for the first night.
My morning exploration started here. At the Ass Bar.
The Ass Bar Bakery
First, it’s not what you think. Second, if your inner immature adolescent can’t help but make jokes about a place called the Ass Bar, I am glad you are my friend.
The Ass Bar (hee hee hee) is a store that is attempting to reduce food waste in the city. They work with bakeries around Bern to gather unsold baked goods and sell them here at a discounted price. I had an espresso and a wonderful chocolate hazelnut croissant that was out of this world. Great concept, nice execution, unfortunate name.
What?
After my light and hilarious breakfast I walked toward a church spire down the road to here.
Christ Catholic Church, Bern
Across the road from the church is the Aare River. Bern is located at a hairpin turn of the Aare and the old town is within the hairpin turn. (Think easily defendable in the old days.)
The hairpin of the Aare RiverOne side of the hairpin turn.
I’m a sucker for old churches and cathedrals so I followed the next spire I spotted to here.
Bern Minster
This is a gothic cathedral (the tallest in Switzerland) began construction in 1421 and was completed in 1893. Here’s some of the interior.
FarCloserAnd a bear.What the…?Interior of Bern Minster
There was a lovely square on the backside of the Minster with a play area for kids and some nice views of the Aare River.
Aare River from the Square behind the MinsterNow looking the other way up the river.
I headed back to the room to relax before heading out again a bit before noon. I wanted to catch the clock tower chiming at noon.
Zytglogge
The Zytglogge clock (or as I like to call it, the ass clock) is a medieval structure built in 1201. It’s a pretty deluxe time keeper for the age with a mechanized animation, a regular clock and an astronomical clock. If you want to watch the video below, stick around to the end to here the rooster crow. I’m guessing this was the grand entertainment of Bern in medieval times.
The crowd waiting for the clock to chime.
Bern means bear so there are bears represented everywhere.
BearAnother bearBear on the ceilingNot a bear but THEY HAVE TOBLERONE ICE CREAM BARS HERE!!!Some bears
And there are also bears.
I’m not really a fan of zoos but I was pleased to see these bears have a very large roaming area set on a hill and a place to fish along the Aare.
They used to be kept in these horrible pits.
Old bear pit.
I’m glad they’re not anymore.
Lunchtime so I got an outdoor table at Altes Tramdepot (just above the bear habitat) and had a very German lunch.
Spring salad with melon, peaches and greens. Pretzel and weisswurst. The weisswurst.
The bears and lunch were at the top of the hairpin turn in the Aare so I’d made it to the end of the Old Town. I meandered back snapping photos along the way.
Here are some gargoyles I love from the Minster.
Headed to the Ass BarGargoyles Me chillin’ in front of the Cathedral.
I wandered over to the parliament building (it seemed rude to not at least stop by since I’m in their Capitol). Remarkable how little security there was around the complex. Perhaps a side effect of neutrality.
Model of the complexBeautifully framed view View from the back of the building.Close up of the main buildingSwiss Parliament
I headed back to the hotel from Parliament to relax for a bit and stopped in the CO-OP (a small grocery store) for a quick pick me up.
M espresso came with a little chocolate hazelnut praline.
Not sure what I’ll do for dinner yet. This seems like a good place to stop a pretty long post. Thanks for following along to this point! Here’s a moment of zen for you.