This is the restaurant where we’ve had breakfast every morning. A delicious mix of cheese, meats and pastries and, of course an espresso macchiato. This morning we were going on a boat ride. Since we booked our room directly (vs. online via Booking.com or some other travel site) we got a “bonus.” Either a bike ride or a boat tour. Boat tour, please!
After breakfast we began to try and find Nico, the person who the hotel owner said we needed to find to have the boat tour. Mike had been messaging him to find where we should meet him. Since this town is so small and the harbor tiny, I’m guessing it’s never very hard to find someone so they didn’t bother making it a specific place. Mike spotted an Italian looking older gentleman who looked ravaged by the sea and said, “Nico…?” It was not Nico.
We eventually found our boat and hopped aboard for a leisurely trip down the coast to Monterosso, the village we visited to do our laundry.
It was a great little ride. I just love being on the water. On the return ride from Monterosso we could see a few of the 5 Terre’s. It photographed horribly but was really neat to see.
We got some neat history from Nico and some insight on what it’s like to live in Vernazza with the blessing/curse of tourism. Nico farms in the winter and does boat tours during the tourist season. He prefers the tours since the farming is essentially cliff climbing. The reason this area is a UNESCO world heritage site is because of the agriculture, planted on the mountain side terraces.
Nico says everything grows well here thanks to the ample water, rich soil and sunlight. Mike and I have loved the fresh produce in our dinners and Mike said it’s the best lettuce he’s ever eaten.
Curious about a few openings like this we saw, Nico explained that it was vents for the train tunnels which run through the mountain from village to village. The train system was built in 1872. Then it was a single tunnel, likely with coal fired steam locomotives. That smoke and steam needed venting. The tunnels were bombed during one of the world wars and rebuilt after WW2 with two tunnels.
Now that the trains are electric I’m not sure there’s a need for the vents, though the trains generate a lot of wind in the tunnel as they are approaching the stations.
The boat dropped us off and then took the rest of the group on for a longer ride. (Our trip was a freebie, I think the others had paid?) We thought we spent just enough time on the boat.
A satisfying day and it was only around 10:15am.
Walking along the harbor I spotted a little jellyfish.
We saw at least at a dozen of these little guys. Their bodies were about the size 1/2 a baseball.
We headed down the main drag to grab a couple of gifts before heading back up to the room. We hung out on the terrace while the housekeeper made up the room for us. After relaxing for a bit we headed down for lunch. The meal? Trofie with Pesto. Again. This time at a different restaurant.
Good but not as good as the other restaurant. Nutella gelato, likely our last gelato in Italy was just as good as yesterday’s. Maybe better because I bonded with the gelato shop owner who confessed to loving all things Nutella just like me. Soul sister.
Belly full of pasta and gelato, we headed back up to the room to crash for a bit. We clearly had to carb up for the nap.
We woke up and read and hung out. I went to my 8:30am meeting (5:30pm local time.)
I mentioned to Mike I sort of wanted to climb the tower across the way from us. We’ve been staring at it for a few days, watching tourists take in the view from the top.
We asked the pharmacist earlier in the day how to get up there. With his directions and following the blue arrow signs…
…and after a ton a steps, we made it to the top.
It was worth the climb.
We made up about 1/2 an hour before they closed.
As we descended Mikey made a friend.
We meandered through the back alleys on the opposite side of the village from where we’re staying.
When we emerged onto the Main Street we sat for a bit and then grabbed some focaccia for dinner. We also grabbed Mille-feuille with chocolate.
We noticed strewn flowers on the street that let to a little chapel.
Then we heard some singing and then saw a large procession of villagers marching toward the chapel from the church dropping handfuls of flowers. Shop owners came out and dropped flowers petals in their path. We went back up to the room and watched them process back to the church soon after.
We ate dinner and split a lemon soda. There’s a band set up in the square below so I think we will be serenaded throughout the rest of the evening.
Hearing the music down below I couldn’t resist running down and checking it out. Mike came along to Facebook live the event. Children playing in front of the band while it looked like nearly the whole town population was out enjoying the concert. The band was…well…the band had a fog machine.
Spending time in the Cinque Terre, particularly Vernazza, has been a once in a lifetime experience. It’s been such a blessing to stay in a beautiful space with beautiful view with my beautiful husband. I’m glad we have this last night here.
Thanks for following along.
Art’s Travel Adventures 